The History of Zenith

"Time to Reach Your Star." In 1969, while the world watched Apollo 11 land on the Moon, Zenith quietly unveiled a movement that would change watchmaking forever: El Primero, the world's first integrated automatic chronograph. Decades later, this legendary caliber continues to beat inside watches from Zenith and—famously—Rolex.

The Le Locle Manufacture

In 1865, a 22-year-old watchmaker named Georges Favre-Jacot established a workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. Unlike the cottage industry model common at the time—where watchmakers worked in home workshops—Favre-Jacot gathered all craftsmen under one roof. This consolidation allowed unprecedented quality control and efficiency.

The company initially operated under various names before settling on "Zenith" in 1911—a name suggesting the highest point, the pinnacle of achievement. The star logo, representing the pursuit of excellence, became one of watchmaking's most recognized symbols.

Building a Legend

By the early 20th century, Zenith had established itself as a serious chronometer maker. The manufacture won numerous observatory prizes for accuracy and developed a reputation for technical excellence. Unlike brands that outsourced components, Zenith produced everything in-house—a practice that would prove crucial for its future.

The manufacture grew to encompass over 600 employees, producing movements for its own watches and supplying calibers to other brands. This vertical integration gave Zenith the engineering depth needed to attempt something revolutionary.

The Race to Automatic Chronograph

By the late 1960s, the holy grail of watchmaking was clear: an automatic chronograph movement. The chronograph (stopwatch function) had existed since 1816, and automatic winding since the 1930s. But combining them—fitting an automatic rotor into the already complex chronograph mechanism—seemed nearly impossible.

Three groups raced toward this goal: a consortium of Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton, and Büren (developing Caliber 11), Seiko in Japan, and Zenith working alone. The race was as much about prestige as practicality—whoever succeeded first would claim a historic achievement.

El Primero: The First

On January 10, 1969, Zenith unveiled El Primero (Spanish for "the first"). The movement beat at 36,000 vibrations per hour—50% faster than typical movements—enabling accuracy to 1/10th of a second. It integrated the chronograph and automatic winding in a single, column-wheel architecture that many consider the finest ever made.

"We didn't just want to be first. We wanted to be best. El Primero was designed to be the ultimate chronograph, not just the first automatic one."
— Zenith engineer

The movement's high frequency came with a trade-off: faster wear. But the precision benefits outweighed this concern, and the El Primero's accuracy exceeded most competitors. Zenith had achieved something remarkable—a movement that was both technically innovative and commercially viable.

The Secret Savior

The 1970s quartz crisis nearly destroyed mechanical watchmaking. As Swiss companies scrambled to produce quartz watches, Zenith's management ordered all mechanical tooling destroyed. The El Primero—just years old—faced extinction.

But one man disobeyed. Charles Vermot, a master watchmaker, secretly hid the El Primero's tools, dies, and technical drawings in the attic of the manufacture. For years, the components gathered dust while quartz dominated the market.

When the mechanical watch renaissance began in the mid-1980s, Zenith discovered Vermot's hidden treasure. The El Primero could be revived, and with it, Zenith's future.

Rolex Comes Calling

In 1988, Rolex made a surprising decision: for the first time, the Daytona chronograph would use an automatic movement. Even more surprisingly, they chose an outside caliber—the Zenith El Primero. Rolex modified the movement significantly (reducing frequency to 28,800 vph and adding their own finishing) but the foundation was Zenith's.

This partnership, lasting until 2000, brought enormous credibility to Zenith. If Rolex—the most self-sufficient manufacture—chose El Primero, it had to be exceptional. The association introduced Zenith to collectors who might otherwise have overlooked the brand.

Key Collections

Chronomaster

The flagship El Primero collection. These chronographs showcase the legendary movement in various configurations—from the iconic tri-color subdial design to open-heart versions exposing the high-frequency escapement. The Chronomaster is Zenith's most recognizable and historically significant line.

Defy

Zenith's modern, avant-garde collection. The Defy pushes El Primero technology to extremes—the Defy El Primero 21 operates at 360,000 vph, measuring 1/100th of a second. The collection also includes the Defy Skyline, a contemporary sports watch with integrated bracelet.

Pilot

Honoring Zenith's aviation heritage dating to the early 20th century. Louis Blériot wore a Zenith during his historic English Channel crossing in 1909. The collection includes faithful re-editions of historical models and modern interpretations with GMT and chronograph functions.

Elite

Zenith's ultra-thin dress watch line, powered by the refined Elite caliber. These understated timepieces prove that Zenith excels beyond chronographs, offering simple elegance for formal occasions.

The 21st Century El Primero

Zenith hasn't rested on El Primero's laurels. The Defy El Primero 21, launched in 2017, pushes the movement's philosophy to its logical extreme: two escapements running at different frequencies. One keeps time at standard speed; the other powers the chronograph at 360,000 vph—measuring to 1/100th of a second with a central chronograph hand completing one rotation per second.

This technical tour de force proved that El Primero wasn't just historically significant—it was a platform for continued innovation. The 21's movement, visible through an open dial, mesmerizes with its high-speed operation.

LVMH and the Future

Since joining LVMH in 1999, Zenith has benefited from investment while maintaining its manufacture heritage. New facilities have expanded production capacity, and the brand has focused increasingly on its chronograph expertise—doubling down on what makes Zenith unique rather than chasing trends.

Recent years have seen Zenith embrace modern aesthetics while honoring heritage. The Defy Skyline brought integrated bracelet sports watch design to Zenith's lineup, while limited editions celebrate historical references. The balance between innovation and tradition seems stable.

The Zenith Collector

Zenith attracts collectors who appreciate technical achievement over brand hype. The El Primero's legendary status among movement enthusiasts provides credentials that marketing cannot buy. These collectors understand that Zenith competes with brands charging significantly more, offering exceptional value at its price point.

The open-dial chronographs, exposing the El Primero's high-frequency escapement, appeal to those who appreciate visible mechanics. The movement's distinctive sound—faster than other watches due to its higher beat rate—provides an audible connection to horological history.

Legacy of the First

More than five decades after its debut, El Primero remains one of watchmaking's most significant achievements. Charles Vermot's secret preservation saved not just a movement, but a manufacture's identity. Today, that movement continues to evolve while staying true to its revolutionary origins.

For collectors who value technical substance, historical significance, and genuine innovation, Zenith offers something rare: a manufacture that achieved true "firsts" and continues to build on that foundation. In an industry often criticized for incremental changes marketed as breakthroughs, Zenith's El Primero represents authentic revolution.