A strap change transforms a watch. The same Speedmaster looks rugged on NATO, elegant on leather, and sporty on rubber. Understanding strap types, sizing, and quality helps you maximize your collection's versatility without buying more watches.
How to Measure Strap Size
Strap width is measured at the lugs (where strap attaches to case). Common sizes: 18mm, 19mm, 20mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm. Measure your current strap or the space between lugs with calipers or ruler.
📏 Quick Measurement
If you don't have calipers: remove the strap, place a ruler across the lug opening, measure the inner distance in millimeters. Round to nearest even number if between sizes.
Leather Straps
Best For
Dress watches, formal occasions, business settings. Leather elevates any watch but shouldn't get wet—avoid with dive watches you'll actually swim with.
Leather Types
- Calfskin: Most common, smooth or textured, various colors
- Alligator/Crocodile: Premium option with distinctive scale pattern
- Shell Cordovan: Horse leather with exceptional durability and patina
- Suede: Casual texture, works with field/vintage watches
- Vegetable-tanned: Develops rich patina over time
Quality Indicators
- Genuine leather (not bonded or synthetic)
- Quality stitching without loose threads
- Smooth edges without fraying
- Consistent thickness
- Signed buckle from reputable maker
Recommended Brands
- Budget ($20-50): Barton, Hadley-Roma, Hirsch (entry line)
- Mid-range ($50-150): Hirsch, Rios1931, Fluco
- Premium ($150-400+): Camille Fournet, Jean Rousseau, ABP
NATO Straps
Best For
Casual wear, tool watches, dive watches, military-style pieces. NATO straps add security (watch stays on wrist if spring bar fails) and casual personality.
NATO Variations
- Standard NATO: Nylon strap with hardware passing under watch
- Zulu: Thicker nylon with larger rings
- Single-pass: Thinner, no hardware under watch, lower profile
- Seatbelt: Smooth weave mimicking car seatbelts
- Leather NATO: Leather with NATO-style hardware
Quality Indicators
- Tight, consistent weave
- Smooth hardware (no sharp edges)
- Proper width for lug size
- Hardware doesn't scratch caseback
Recommended Brands
- Budget ($10-25): Barton, Cheapest NATO Straps, Amazon basics
- Mid-range ($25-60): Crown & Buckle, Blushark, Haveston
- Premium ($60-150): Omega OEM, Erika's Originals, Phoenix
Rubber/Silicone Straps
Best For
Dive watches, sport watches, summer wear, water activities. Rubber is the most practical choice for actual water use—dries quickly, doesn't absorb sweat.
Types
- FKM rubber: Premium fluoroelastomer, soft, durable, chemical resistant
- Silicone: Soft, affordable, less durable than FKM
- Vulcanized rubber: Firm, structured, OEM quality
- Tropical style: Vintage-inspired with holes for ventilation
- Integrated: Designed for specific watch models (Rubber B, etc.)
Recommended Brands
- Budget ($15-40): Barton, StrapsCo, generic silicone
- Mid-range ($40-100): Crafter Blue, Uncle Seiko, Zuludiver
- Premium ($150-300+): Rubber B, Everest, Horus (model-specific)
Metal Bracelets
Best For
Professional settings, versatile daily wear, watches designed with integrated bracelets. Metal bracelets offer durability and often define a watch's aesthetic (think Oyster, Jubilee, PRX).
Bracelet Styles
- Oyster: Three-link flat design (Rolex signature)
- Jubilee: Five-link flowing design (Rolex/Seiko)
- President: Semi-circular three-link (Rolex Day-Date)
- Engineer: H-link industrial style (Seiko)
- Milanese/Mesh: Woven metal, dressy and adjustable
- Beads of Rice: Vintage style with small linked segments
Quality Indicators
- Solid end links (not folded/hollow)
- Minimal stretch/rattle between links
- Smooth clasp operation
- Quality finishing (brushed/polished appropriate to watch)
- Easy micro-adjustment on clasp
Aftermarket Options
- Budget ($30-80): StrapCode, Uncle Seiko, Forstner (Bonklip)
- Mid-range ($80-200): Forstner (Komfit, JB), Geckota
- Premium: OEM is usually best for metal bracelets
How to Change Straps
Tools Needed
- Spring bar tool (forked end and pointed end)
- Soft cloth or watch holder to protect case
- Good lighting
- Patience
Steps
- Place watch face-down on soft surface
- Insert forked end of tool between strap and lug
- Compress spring bar by pushing toward center of strap
- Angle strap away from lug once spring bar clears
- Repeat for other side
- Install new strap by compressing spring bar, inserting one end into lug hole, then releasing into opposite hole
💡 Quick-Release Spring Bars
Upgrade to quick-release spring bars (~$10 for a set). Small lever on spring bar allows tool-free strap changes. Game-changer if you swap straps frequently.
Strap Recommendations by Watch Type
- Dive watch: OEM bracelet, rubber, NATO
- Dress watch: Alligator leather, black or brown calfskin
- Field watch: NATO, canvas, leather
- Pilot watch: Riveted leather, NATO, brown leather
- Chronograph: OEM bracelet, rally leather, rubber
- Vintage: Period-appropriate leather, mesh, beads of rice
Care Tips
- Leather: Keep dry, condition occasionally, rotate straps to extend life
- NATO/nylon: Hand wash with mild soap, air dry
- Rubber: Rinse after saltwater, avoid prolonged sun exposure
- Metal: Clean with soft brush and soapy water, dry thoroughly