Watch Basics
What's the difference between quartz and automatic watches?
Quartz watches use a battery to power an electronic oscillator regulated by a quartz crystal—they're accurate to within seconds per month and require little maintenance beyond battery changes. Automatic (mechanical) watches are powered by a wound mainspring and regulated by a balance wheel—they typically gain or lose a few seconds per day but are prized for their craftsmanship and don't require batteries. Many enthusiasts appreciate automatics for their engineering artistry.
What does "water resistance" actually mean?
Water resistance ratings indicate the static pressure a watch can withstand, not actual depth you can dive to. 30m/3ATM means splash-resistant only (no swimming). 50m/5ATM is suitable for brief swimming. 100m/10ATM works for swimming and snorkeling. 200m+ is suitable for recreational diving. For serious diving, look for ISO 6425 certified dive watches. Always have water resistance tested after any service.
How often should I service my watch?
Mechanical watches should be serviced every 5-7 years, though some modern movements claim 10-year intervals. Quartz watches need battery replacement every 2-3 years and a full service every 7-10 years. If you notice accuracy issues, the watch stops, or the crown feels gritty, it's time for service. Always use authorized or reputable independent watchmakers.
What is a COSC chronometer?
COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) is the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. A COSC-certified chronometer has passed 15 days of testing in multiple positions and temperatures, achieving accuracy within -4/+6 seconds per day. It's a mark of precision, though many excellent watches don't have this certification.
Buying Advice
Should I buy my first luxury watch new or pre-owned?
Both have merits. New watches come with full warranties and are guaranteed authentic, but you'll pay retail and face depreciation. Pre-owned watches offer 20-40% savings on most brands, allow access to discontinued models, but require careful authentication. For first-time buyers, consider authorized dealers for peace of mind, or reputable pre-owned dealers like Crown & Caliber, Hodinkee Shop, or Chrono24's trusted sellers.
What size watch should I get?
Watch size depends on wrist circumference and personal preference. Generally: under 6.5" wrist suits 36-40mm cases; 6.5-7" wrist suits 38-42mm; over 7" wrist suits 40-46mm. The watch should not overhang your wrist, and lugs shouldn't extend past your wrist edges. When in doubt, go smaller—oversized watches are going out of style. Visit our Size Guide for detailed measurements.
Are luxury watches good investments?
Some watches appreciate (Rolex sports models, Patek Philippe Nautilus, rare pieces), but most luxury watches depreciate 20-50% after purchase. Buy watches you love and will wear—if they happen to hold value, that's a bonus. For true investment potential, stick to limited editions, in-demand steel sports watches, or historically significant pieces. Never buy on credit expecting appreciation.
How do I spot a fake watch?
Red flags include: too-good-to-be-true prices, lightweight feel, misaligned text/indices, rough finishing, "genuine" claims in listings, and sellers avoiding questions. Always buy from authorized dealers or reputable pre-owned sellers. For expensive purchases, get the watch authenticated before buying. When in doubt, trust your gut—if something feels wrong, walk away.
Care & Maintenance
How should I store my watches?
Store watches in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and magnetic fields (speakers, phones, laptops). Use a watch box or roll to prevent scratches. For automatic watches you don't wear daily, let them stop rather than using a winder—constant running can increase wear. Wind manual watches monthly even if not wearing them to keep oils distributed.
Can I shower with my watch?
Generally, no. Hot water and steam can compromise gaskets, and soap can degrade them faster. Even water-resistant watches should avoid hot showers. Cold, brief rinses to clean saltwater are usually fine for 100m+ rated watches, but dry thoroughly afterward. The safest approach: remove your watch before showering.
How do I care for a leather strap?
Avoid water exposure—leather absorbs moisture and can deteriorate. Let it dry naturally if it gets wet (never use heat). Apply leather conditioner every few months. Rotate between straps to let them air out. In humid conditions, consider switching to a rubber or metal bracelet. Quality leather straps typically last 1-2 years with regular wear.
My watch is running fast/slow—is that normal?
For mechanical watches, ±5-10 seconds per day is normal; COSC chronometers are ±4-6 seconds/day. Quartz watches should be within ±15 seconds per month. If your watch is significantly outside these ranges, it may need regulation or service. Magnetic exposure, shocks, or old lubricants can affect accuracy.
Specific Features
What is a GMT watch?
GMT watches display a second time zone using an additional hour hand that circles the dial once every 24 hours. Combined with a rotating bezel, you can track up to three time zones simultaneously. Originally developed for Pan Am pilots in 1954 (Rolex GMT-Master), they're perfect for travelers and anyone who works across time zones.
What does "chronograph" mean?
A chronograph is a watch with a built-in stopwatch function. Pushers on the side start, stop, and reset the timing function, while subdials display elapsed seconds, minutes, and sometimes hours. The main hands continue showing the time independently. Chronographs were originally developed for aviation, racing, and scientific timing.
What is a "moonphase" complication?
A moonphase display shows the current phase of the moon through a small aperture on the dial. A disc with two moons rotates beneath, completing a full cycle every 29.5 days (a lunar month). High-end moonphases are accurate enough to need correction only once every 122+ years. It's both useful for tide-dependent activities and simply beautiful.