Hublot broke every rule of traditional watchmaking—and became one of the industry's biggest success stories. In just over four decades, this rebellious brand transformed from an industry outsider with one controversial idea to an LVMH-owned powerhouse worn by celebrities, athletes, and heads of state. The secret? A willingness to fuse the unfusable.
A Scandalous Beginning (1980)
Italian watchmaker Carlo Crocco founded Hublot in 1980 with a single, scandalous idea: combine a gold watch case with a rubber strap. In an era when luxury watches meant precious metals and exotic leather, rubber was unthinkable—associated with diving gear and industrial equipment, not haute horlogerie.
Traditional watchmakers were appalled. Retailers refused to stock the watches. Critics declared the concept doomed. But Crocco persisted, and slowly the MDM (the original Hublot model) found buyers among those who appreciated its bold departure from convention.
The name itself was provocative: "hublot" is French for "porthole," referencing the watch's design with its distinctive bezel screws resembling a ship's window.
Struggle and Survival (1980-2004)
For 25 years, Hublot remained a niche brand—respected by some, ignored by most. Annual production hovered around 20,000 pieces. The company survived but never thrived. It seemed destined to remain a footnote in watchmaking history.
That changed dramatically in 2004 when Jean-Claude Biver arrived.
The Biver Revolution (2004)
Jean-Claude Biver had already resurrected one legendary brand—Blancpain in the 1980s—and transformed another—Omega in the 1990s. Taking control of Hublot, he identified its core strength: the willingness to fuse unexpected materials.
Biver codified this as "The Art of Fusion"—not just gold and rubber, but any materials that had never been combined before. Under this philosophy, Hublot would blend traditional and contemporary, precious and industrial, Swiss craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology.
The Big Bang (2005): Biver's first major release was the Big Bang—a 44mm beast combining ceramic bezel, titanium case, and rubber strap with a chronograph movement. It was bold, loud, and completely different from anything else in the market. It was also an immediate sensation, with waiting lists forming overnight.
Material Innovation
Hublot's R&D department became an experimental laboratory for materials never before used in watchmaking:
• Magic Gold: Scratch-resistant 18K gold fused with ceramic (2011)
• Texalium: Aluminum-coated carbon fiber
• King Gold: Proprietary red gold alloy
• Sapphire crystal cases: Complete transparency
• Ceramic in colors: Bright red, blue, and other shades previously impossible in ceramic
• Concrete and linen: Yes, actual concrete and fabric dials
The Marketing Machine
Biver revolutionized watch marketing through strategic partnerships:
• FIFA World Cup: Official timekeeper (2010-present)
• Ferrari: Exclusive partnership producing co-branded chronographs
• UEFA Champions League: Fourth official boards
• Usain Bolt, Pelé, Kobe Bryant: Brand ambassadors
• Jay-Z: Collaborative limited editions
Hublot became omnipresent at global sporting events and on celebrity wrists, creating visibility that traditional advertising couldn't match.
Carlo Crocco founds Hublot with gold-and-rubber concept
Jean-Claude Biver becomes CEO
Big Bang launches; brand takes off
LVMH acquires Hublot
FIFA World Cup partnership begins
Magic Gold introduced—scratch-resistant 18K gold
New manufacture in Nyon opens
In-House Manufacturing
What began as a marketing phenomenon developed into a serious watchmaking operation. In 2010, Hublot introduced the UNICO—its first in-house chronograph movement. The manufacture in Nyon, Switzerland, now produces proprietary movements including the column-wheel UNICO, the ultra-thin MECA-10 with 10-day power reserve, and the MP (Masterpiece) complications.
Polarizing by Design
Hublot divides watch enthusiasts more than any other brand. Critics dismiss it as style over substance, marketing over craftsmanship. Defenders appreciate its innovation, boldness, and willingness to push boundaries.
This polarization may be intentional. In an industry dominated by heritage brands measuring history in centuries, Hublot offers something different: watches for people who don't care about tradition. The brand's success suggests there's a substantial market for exactly that.
Today's Hublot
Under LVMH ownership since 2008, Hublot produces approximately 60,000 watches annually—triple the output under Crocco. The Big Bang remains the flagship, but Classic Fusion offers a more restrained aesthetic, and the Spirit of Big Bang brings the fusion philosophy to a tonneau case.
From outcast to powerhouse in 40 years, Hublot proves that breaking rules—when done with conviction—can create an entirely new paradigm.