H. Moser & Cie is Swiss watchmaking's provocateur—a brand that creates exquisite fumé dials and in-house movements while simultaneously mocking the industry's pretensions. From Swiss Alp watches resembling Apple Watches to Cheese watches with actual cheese dials, Moser combines genuine haute horlogerie with irreverent humor. It's serious watchmaking that doesn't take itself too seriously.
Heinrich Moser's Empire (1828)
Heinrich Moser founded his company in 1828 in St. Petersburg, Russia—not Switzerland. The German-born, Swiss-trained watchmaker built an empire selling Swiss watches to the Russian market, establishing a factory in Le Locle to supply his growing business.
At its peak, H. Moser & Cie employed over 300 workers and sold tens of thousands of watches annually, particularly pocket watches for the Russian aristocracy. Heinrich Moser became one of the wealthiest watchmakers of his era.
Decline and Dormancy
The Russian Revolution of 1917 devastated Moser's primary market. The brand struggled through the 20th century, eventually ceasing production entirely. For decades, H. Moser & Cie existed only in collector memory and auction catalogs.
Revival by MELB Holding (2005)
The Meylan family, through MELB Holding, acquired the dormant H. Moser & Cie name in 2005 and relaunched the brand with an ambitious goal: create true manufacture watches with in-house movements, distinctive design, and absolute quality—at prices below the Swiss establishment.
The revival was serious: Moser developed proprietary movements, acquired movement maker Hautlence's technology, and established a reputation for exceptional finishing.
The Fumé Dial: Moser's signature is the fumé (smoked) dial—a gradient effect achieved through multiple lacquer layers, each hand-applied and fired. The dial transitions from deep color at the edges to lighter tones at the center, creating remarkable depth. Moser's fumé dials are considered among the finest in the industry, inspiring countless imitations.
Provocative Marketing
Moser gained attention through deliberately provocative campaigns:
• Swiss Alp Watch (2016): A mechanical watch shaped exactly like an Apple Watch—mocking smartwatch aesthetics while delivering traditional horology
• Swiss Mad Watch (2017): Featured actual Swiss cheese in the dial—commentary on "Swiss Made" regulations
• Swiss Icons Watch (2018): Index markers made from dial parts of Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe—questioning originality
• Concept watches: Progressively stripped designs removing logos, indices, even hands
Each provocation generated controversy, discussion, and ultimately respect for a brand willing to challenge conventions.
The Streamliner
The Streamliner collection (2020) marked Moser's entry into integrated-bracelet sports watches. Rather than copying Royal Oak or Nautilus, the Streamliner features flowing Art Deco lines inspired by 1920s trains and automobiles. The cushion-shaped case flows seamlessly into its bracelet through curved links.
The design is distinctive and successful—a genuine contribution to the integrated-bracelet genre rather than mere imitation.
Heinrich Moser founds company in St. Petersburg
Russian Revolution devastates business
MELB Holding revives brand
Swiss Alp Watch provokes industry
Streamliner collection debuts
Acquired by Swatch Group
Manufacture Credentials
Beyond marketing provocations, Moser is a genuine manufacture:
• In-house movements: All calibers developed and produced internally
• In-house hairsprings: Through sister company Precision Engineering AG
• Exceptional finishing: Hand-applied fumé dials, Moser stripes, polished bevels
• Minimal outsourcing: Cases, dials, movements—nearly everything is made in-house
This manufacture depth rivals brands costing significantly more.
The Collections
Modern H. Moser & Cie organizes around distinct lines:
• Endeavour: Classical dress watches showcasing fumé dials
• Pioneer: Modern sports watches with cushion cases
• Streamliner: Integrated bracelet sports collection
• Heritage: Tribute pieces honoring historical designs
• Swiss Alp: The provocative Apple Watch-shaped series
Swatch Group Acquisition (2023)
Swatch Group acquired H. Moser & Cie in 2023, adding the brand's manufacture capabilities and irreverent identity to its portfolio. The acquisition promises increased resources while Moser maintains creative independence.
Today's H. Moser & Cie
Operating from Schaffhausen (near IWC), Moser produces approximately 1,500 watches annually—deliberately limited. Prices range from approximately $15,000 to well over $100,000 for complicated pieces.
For collectors seeking genuine manufacture quality, exceptional dial work, and a brand personality that challenges rather than follows, H. Moser & Cie offers something unique: serious watchmaking with a sense of humor.