Blancpain holds the distinction of being the world's oldest watch brand, founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland. Nearly three centuries later, the manufacture remains committed to a philosophy that has defined it since the quartz crisis: "Since 1735 there has never been a quartz Blancpain watch. And there never will be."
Origins in Villeret (1735)
Jehan-Jacques Blancpain established his workshop in the upper floor of his home in Villeret, a small village in the Swiss Jura mountains. The location would become synonymous with fine watchmaking, and generations of the Blancpain family would continue the craft for over 200 years.
By the 19th century, Blancpain had developed innovative manufacturing techniques, including the use of cylinder escapements and later lever escapements. The company became known for producing high-quality timepieces that combined technical excellence with elegant design.
The Fifty Fathoms (1953)
Blancpain's most iconic creation emerged from an unlikely collaboration. Captain Robert "Bob" Maloubier of the French Navy's combat diving unit approached CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter—himself an avid diver—to create a watch capable of withstanding underwater missions.
The result was the Fifty Fathoms, launched in 1953. It featured a rotating bezel to track dive time, luminous markers for low-light visibility, automatic movement, and water resistance to approximately 91 meters (fifty fathoms). The Fifty Fathoms predated the Rolex Submariner to market and established many standards that dive watches still follow today.
Fifty Fathoms Legacy: The watch was adopted by military diving units worldwide, including the U.S. Navy SEALs' predecessors. Its design influenced virtually every dive watch that followed, making Blancpain the true pioneer of the modern dive watch.
Near Death and Resurrection (1970s-1980s)
The quartz crisis devastated the Swiss watch industry, and Blancpain was not spared. By 1971, production had ceased and the brand appeared destined for obscurity. But in 1983, Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet acquired the dormant company for approximately $22,000.
Biver's vision was radical: produce only mechanical watches with the highest finishing, in limited quantities, using traditional techniques. He famously declared that Blancpain would never make a quartz watch—a stance that seemed suicidal at the time but proved visionary.
The Villeret Collection
Named after Blancpain's birthplace, the Villeret collection embodies classical watchmaking at its finest. These dress watches feature slim cases, Grand Feu enamel dials, and complications including moon phases, complete calendars, and minute repeaters. The Villeret represents Blancpain's mastery of traditional haute horlogerie.
Métiers d'Art
Blancpain maintains rare decorative arts that most manufactures have abandoned. Their artisans practice Shakudō (a Japanese metalworking technique), Binchōtan (charcoal carving), enamel painting, and engraving. Each Métiers d'Art piece requires hundreds of hours and represents the pinnacle of horological artistry.
Jehan-Jacques Blancpain establishes workshop in Villeret
First automatic wristwatch with self-winding movement
Fifty Fathoms dive watch launched for French Navy
Jean-Claude Biver acquires and revives the brand
"Six Masterpieces" complications completed
Acquired by Swatch Group
Fifty Fathoms 50th anniversary, collection relaunched
Today's Blancpain
Under Swatch Group ownership since 1992, Blancpain operates as a true manufacture, producing its own movements including the caliber 1315 with silicon balance spring and 120-hour power reserve. Annual production remains deliberately limited—estimated at 30,000 pieces—maintaining exclusivity and quality.
The brand focuses on three main collections: Fifty Fathoms for sport and diving, Villeret for classical elegance, and Ladybird for women. Each represents Blancpain's commitment to mechanical excellence and traditional craftsmanship in an age of mass production.